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Calculate monthly payments and view a full amortization schedule.

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How is the monthly payment calculated?

The monthly payment uses the standard amortization formula: M = P × [r(1+r)^n] / [(1+r)^n – 1], where P is the loan principal, r is the monthly interest rate (annual rate / 12), and n is the total number of payments.

What is an amortization schedule?

An amortization schedule shows the breakdown of each payment into principal and interest. Early payments are mostly interest, but over time more goes toward reducing the principal. This schedule helps you see exactly how your loan balance decreases over time.

A Short History of Loans, Interest, and Amortisation

Borrowing money is as old as agriculture. The earliest surviving legal code, Hammurabi's Code (~1754 BCE in Babylon), included statutory interest caps: 20% per year on silver loans and 33⅓% on grain. Roman law subsequently capped rates and the lex Genucia (342 BCE) briefly banned interest entirely, though enforcement was sporadic. The mathematics of compound interest entered Western Europe through Leonardo Fibonacci's «Liber Abaci» (1202), which introduced Hindu-Arabic numerals to the Mediterranean and worked out the compound-interest problems that medieval merchants had been computing awkwardly with Roman numerals. The Florentine and Genoese banking houses (Medici, Peruzzi, Bardi) refined the practice into the modern double-entry ledger. The Swiss mathematician Jacob Bernoulli stumbled across the constant e ≈ 2.71828 in 1683 while studying the limit of compound interest as the compounding frequency approached infinity: the number that governs all continuous-compounding finance emerged out of asking how rich a deposit could become. The closed-form amortisation formula M = P × r(1+r)ⁿ / ((1+r)ⁿ − 1) was standard textbook material by the late 1800s. American mortgages remained short-term (5-10 years with a balloon repayment) until the Great Depression: in 1933 the Home Owners' Loan Corporation (HOLC) refinanced defaulting mortgages with long-term amortising loans, and in 1934 the Federal Housing Administration (FHA), established by the National Housing Act, insured the long-amortising format that became the modern 30-year fixed-rate mortgage. The other defining piece of US consumer-lending law is the Truth in Lending Act (TILA, 1968), implemented through the Federal Reserve's Regulation Z, which forced lenders to disclose the Annual Percentage Rate (APR) alongside the headline interest rate so borrowers could compare fees-included costs across competing offers. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB), created by the Dodd-Frank Act in 2010 and operational in 2011, took over enforcement of TILA, RESPA, and ECOA, and authored the integrated «Loan Estimate» and «Closing Disclosure» forms now standard for US mortgages. The 30-year fixed-rate mortgage remains the dominant US home loan, and the amortisation formula above is the same one your bank's loan officer uses on her calculator.

The Anatomy of a Loan Payment

Common Loan Types and Who Borrows

Standards, Regulations, and Historical Milestones

More frequently asked questions

How does paying extra principal change the schedule?

An extra principal payment reduces the balance immediately, so the next month's interest is calculated on the smaller balance and more of every subsequent payment goes to principal. The earlier the extra payment, the more total interest it saves. An extra $5,000 in month 1 of a 30-year mortgage typically saves more total interest than four extra $5,000 payments in year 25, because interest accrues on the principal you would otherwise have been carrying for the next 29 years.

Why is my actual monthly mortgage payment higher than this number?

Because lenders typically include property taxes and insurance in the monthly bill via an escrow account: that's the PITI (Principal + Interest + Taxes + Insurance) acronym. Property tax (typically 1-2% of home value annually in the US), homeowner's insurance ($1,000-$3,000 per year), and PMI (if the down payment was below 20%) all add up. The true monthly outlay on a US mortgage is usually 25-40% above the bare P&I figure this calculator returns.

Should I pick a 15-year or a 30-year mortgage?

The 15-year has a lower interest rate (typically 0.5-0.75 percentage points below the equivalent 30-year), much lower total interest, and you own the home outright twice as fast, but the monthly payment is roughly 30% higher. The 30-year frees up cash flow and lets you invest the difference; some financial planners argue this is the better long-term wealth-building choice if you're disciplined enough to actually invest the difference. Run both scenarios in the calculator with realistic rates for each and compare.

Is the calculator accurate for non-US loans?

The amortisation formula is identical worldwide for fixed-rate loans. UK mortgages, Australian home loans, and Canadian variable-rate mortgages all use the same math. The differences are compounding frequency (UK and traditional Canadian mortgages use semi-annual compounding, not monthly), early-repayment penalties, and standard term lengths. The headline monthly payment from this calculator is correct as long as the rate and term you enter match how the loan is structured.

Are my loan figures stored or sent anywhere?

No. The calculator runs entirely in your browser. The loan amount, rate, term, and amortisation schedule are computed and rendered locally. Nothing is transmitted to any server, no analytics events log the values, no marketing list captures your inputs. Loan-shopping data is highly sought-after by lenders and lead-generation companies, and many free calculator sites are funded by selling exactly this information. This one is not.

What is a refinance and when does it make sense?

A refinance replaces your current loan with a new one, typically at a lower rate or different term. The rough rule of thumb: refinancing makes sense if the new rate is at least 0.5-1% below your current rate and you'll stay in the property long enough to recoup the closing costs (usually 2-5% of the loan amount). Use this calculator twice (once with your current loan, once with the refinanced loan) and compare total interest plus closing costs to see whether the math actually works for your situation.

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